Street Style, Logos, and D&G’s Diversity: Recap of Milan Fashion Week SS’19

By Madeleine Campbell Janz

Milan Fashion Week is typically seen as the most chic of the fashion weeks because of the Italian allure, attention to detail, and the general seduction of Milan. Although this SS’19 season was no different, Milan is feeling the effects of anti-conformism and the pressures of fast fashion, just as all of the industry hubs are.

Having said that, this did not seem to deter the designers away from their creative freedom. The second largest Italian city embraced youth culture and the new age of consumerism by adding more dynamic prints, soft-tones, and logomania to their typical elegant approach.

The most tangible manifestation of this new horizon in Milan is the immense growth of the street style scene, especially in menswear. There were blazers galore, in both fitted and oversized silhouettes, with embellished shoulders and pockets. Although blazers are often seen as a basic staple and not a key feature of street style, this element took the Italian je ne sais quoi into the modern fashion atmosphere.

Jeans were also heavily utilized on the cobblestone streets of Milan in the form of black denim shorts, denim jackets layered over dresses, and printed jeans. Off-duty models especially donned this look to stay casual and comfortable, while the consumers of the shows stuck to their flowing dresses in major prints and cascading layers.

Photo Credits: Phil Oh

Photo Credits: Phil Oh

Despite the lasting effects of the loss of Gucci to Paris Fashion Week, the excitement and wonderment was palpable when the major shows began. Moncler dazzled their audiences with sleek silhouettes and red logos, which contrasted against the dark concrete background. This made the entire collection carry the street style appeal that Moncler is so known for.

Photo Credits: IMAXTREE, Moncler SS’19

Fendi followed suit with their contemporary yet classic logomania in oranges, black, and beige. Many fashion critics would say that Fendi itself created the modern form of logomania successfully reigning in the Kardashians and Chiara Ferragni to don fully logoed outfits.

Photo Credits: Kim Weston Arnold, Fendi SS’19

Photo Credits: Kim Weston Arnold, Fendi SS’19

Prada, on the other hand, took a more minimalist approach to the use of their iconic logo. The classic inverted triangle appeared on the left breast of satin shirts with built in ascot bows. As per usual, Prada was dripping in traditional yet renewed refinement.

Photo Credits: Monica Feudi, Prada SS’19

Photo Credits: Monica Feudi, Prada SS’19

Macro prints made a new appearance during Milan Fashion Week as Versace and Marni took on retro fabrics and blended them with crisp white and sheer black. To highlight the ferocity of these loud prints, Versace leaned on black platforms to simplify the looks whilst Marni employed chic sunglasses and necklaces to balance the patterns. Versace utilized much less color than Marni, but still stuck to a more modern form of their typical regality.

Photo Credits: Luca Tombolini, Marni SS’19

Photo Credits: Luca Tombolini, Marni SS’19

The notorious red coat of Milan Fashion Week was on display in both shows. Marni had their version in full trench length, whilst Versace opted for a cropped version. Loud colors are typical for a Marni show but Versace’s new embrace of color and print mixing is a true nod to Donatella’s ever observant eye for trend forecasting.

Photo Credits: INDIGITAL, Versace SS’19

Photo Credits: INDIGITAL, Versace SS’19

Perhaps the most important sartorial and community event of Milan Fashion Week was Dolce and Gabbana’s amusing family-centered show. The models were diverse, there were many (real!) families on the runway, and the clothing was eclectic. Dolce and Gabbana has never shied away from these concepts, but with the recent embracement of the self-love and self-acceptance movement their true design can become manifest.

To contrast the individualism and elitism often found at Fashion Week around the globe, Dolce and Gabbana filled their stage, literally, in a visceral act of display. It was a creative collective with a community of models varied in age, size, and color. Having said this though, they could have worked harder on casting people with disabilities and gender nonconforming identities. In the end, Dolce and Gabbana had their usual elements of gaudy fabrics and loud textures, but this time it worked on every person to be a representative of modern families and modern women.

Photo Credits: Yannis Vlamos, Dolce and Gabbana SS’19

Photo Credits: Yannis Vlamos, Dolce and Gabbana SS’19

Milan Fashion Week SS’19 gave us a taste of what it means to be an old city full of charm with new life and vigor infused into the fashion scene. Milan did not skip a beat in their schedule this season and continues to display some of the most renowned designers and also some of the best (and most unique) street style. A drama-free and enticing week of fashion shows called people from all over the world to attend Milan’s cultural event of the year and I am sure they didn’t leave disappointed.

BIO

Madeleine Campbell works for the Philadelphia-based Motivos Magazine as an Editorial Fellow. She is currently working towards both her Bachelors of Art and Masters in Creative Publishing and Critical Journalism at The New School in New York City. Post-graduation Madeleine hopes to continue merging the analytical journalism world with the fashion industry. You can follow her on Instagram @madilonglegs24.